History of Sligo

Sligo is a town in northwest Ireland of 20,000 people and is the second largest town in Connacht, the county town of County Sligo. The town Sligo has an urban history going back to the 13th century and a history of settlement going back to the Mesolithic era. The modern town developed on the Sligeach (Garavogue) river within the Irish túath (territory) of Cairbre Droma Cliabh. The history of Sligo town is a remarkably turbulent, colourful and varied one.

Location

Ancient settlement centred on the bay of Sligo (Inbher mBúadha) since the beginning of human settlement in the area during the Mesolithic. Its location has been called "strategic," as it is not only between Lough Gill and the sea, but also on the coastal corridor that forms the main route between the provinces of Ulster and Connacht. That there were woods along the Sligo river is mentioned in Tírecháns Life of Patrick, wherein the saint prophesied that in later times the sea would force people to move to this location.

Sligo is on the crossing point of several routes and is a natural meeting-place where trade may take place. As a marketplace it attracted settlement by merchants.

The foundation of the abbey was followed by the clustering outside the abbey gates of houses of those providing services or selling goods to the monks. Sligo is on the ford across the Garavogue river

The town follows a ridge of higher ground paralleling the river on the south side, and the High street appears to follow the course of a stream leading to the river. Abbeyquarter and Castlequarter.

Name

the name Sligo is an English corruption of the Irish name Sligeach, meaning "abounding in shells." It refers to the abundance of shellfish found in the estuary, and from the extensive shell middens along the shores of Sligo bay. The name initially referred only to the river, then was applied to the town and eventually also the county created by the English viceroy Henry Sidney.

Early Sligo

see Archaeology of County Sligo

Little is known of what kind of settlement existed here in the Mesolithic, but the population density of the area appears relatively high Neolithic period as shown by the profusion of archaeological sites within and around the town.

For example, the extensive early Neolithic cemetery at Carrowmore, an outlier tomb is on the south bank of the Garavogue river within the town. The oldest known causewayed enclosure in Britain and Ireland is situated on the high ground southwest edge of the town at Magheraboy.^[1]

That the area was known to Greek and Roman trading vessels is shown by its inclusion on Ptolemy's co-ordinate map of the 2nd century AD, where it is marked as the town of Nagnata. This is the only settlement marked on the west coast of Ireland by Ptolemy.^[2] It is possible traders were attracts to the silver and lead mines on the coast at Ballysadare.

By the twelfth century AD there was a bridge and a small settlement in existence. The Irish territory within which the settlement was placed was called Cairbre Drom Cliabh or Críoch Cairbre. Another, older name, according to Acallamh na Sénorach was Críoch an Cosnámha (The District of Contention).

The hill on which is the star fort known as the Greenfort had an earlier Irish rath called Rath na Bhritóg.

Norman Era

With the Norman invasion of Connacht in 1236 AD by the French speaking Cambro-Norman knights, known as Galls (Gauls) to the Irish. Sligo was accessible by sea, and a sheltered port, which was vital to Norman military tactics as they, descendants of Vikings, relied on amphibious operations to supply and reinforce.

The Normans took advantage of political divisions already in existence. Sligo was on the frontier between the ancient provinces of Ulster and Connacht.^[3] After the arrival of the justiciar (representative) of the King of England, Maurice Fitzgerald land was granted to the clergyman Clarus MacMailenn of Lough Cé intended for the construction of a hospital.The building materials were gathered but the order was then switched to a castle by Fitzgerald, who having the upper hand, ordered the building of a castle to secure the position. Fedlim O'Conchobar, King of Connacht was ordered to build a castle by Maurice Fitzgerald, the Norman baron and warrior. Maurice used the castle as a base to invade Tir Conaill (Donegal).

"The castle of Sligo was built by Mac Muiris FitzGerald, Justiciar of Ireland, and by the Sil Murray. For Fedlim O Conchobair was bidden to build it at his own cost and to take the stones and lime of the spital house of the Trinity for the building, though the Justiciar had previously given that site to Clarus Mag Mailin in honour of the Holy Trinity." (Annals of Connacht, 1245)

Warfare for control of Sligo castle was to become a constant feature from the building of the first castle in 1245 until the destruction of was still standing in 1691.nbIn 1257 Maurice Fitzgerald was mortally wounded at the battle of Credran Cille to the north of the town near Ballincar.

The Berminghams seized control of Tir Fhiacrach

Ultimately, the Normans failed to retain control of the area despite numerous efforts, and were permanently expelled by the early to mid fourteenth century.

They had nonetheless succeeded in laying the foundations for the modern town of Sligo which retains certain Norman characteristics to this day.The High street with a flare and market cross is typical of Norman urban layouts as are the narrow burgage plots running at right angles to many streets are typical of Norman architecture and planning. They also brought their extensive merchant contacts with England, France and Spain which enhanced the wine trade.

Castle of Sligo

see Sligo Castle The exact location and layout of Sligo castle remains unknown, as no trace now exists above ground. It is thought to have stood in Quay street in the vicinity or on the site of the present city hall.

Holy Cross Friary

The Holy Cross Dominican Friary. The Dominicans were a mendicant order, reliant on alms, and who preached to the poor of the towns. A monastery was built and a cemetery consecrated for the Preaching-friars in Sligo. This is the founding of the Abbey on Abbey street, Sligo town. The Preaching-friars marked out the site of another monastery at Ath Lethan in Lúighne.

Medieval Gaelic Era

It is unique in Ireland as the only large medieval town to have been under Gaelic Irish control throughout the Middle Ages, from around 1300 to 1600 AD.With the Europe wide slow down in urbanisation in the mid 14th century, Sligo town flourished during the subsequent Gaelic revival trading with Galwayw and with French, Spanish and English merchants. Herring seems to have been an important commodity as it is mentioned in a Bristol sailors song of the early 15th century. "Herring of Sligo and salmon of Bann, Has made in Bristol many a rich man".^[4]

At this time, Sligo was a prosperous trading port, exporting fish, wool, cow hide, and timber, while importing wine, salt and iron. Saffron may have been imported as well for its use as a dye as well as indigo which is mentioned as a common colour for clothing in the Sligo area. The cocket of the port was a coveted income.

The town functioned as the centre of the Gaelic confederation of Íochtar Connacht.

Several merchants tower houses were built near the abbey and along Castle street. No trace of them exists now above ground."The town was burnt by O Domnaill, which was a pity buildings both of stone and wood were magnificent."

The castle and the variegated door. Horse races were held in the town close to the castle at this time.

On Castle Point on the east side of Half Moon Bay at Annagh (Eanach) now known as Hazelwood is the site of a castle of O' Conchobar Sligigh. This area was the lucht tighe, household or demesne land of the chiefs of Cairbre Drom Cliabh.

The Leabhar na hUidhre or Book of the Dun Cow was kept in Sligo for 170 years after being taken from Tírconaill as ransom for the capture of

British Empire

During the latter half of the 16th century Sligo was targeted by the Elizabethan administration in Dublin as a strategic location for anyone attempting to control the northwest. The town now became caught between three different power blocs, the Earls of Clanricard to the west, the O'Donnell confederation Tírconaill to the north, and the Dublin government under the English Crown in the east.

Surrender and Regrant

Under pressure from the O Donnells to the north and the Clanricard Burkes to the south, in 1567 Domhnall O' Conchobar signed an agreement with Henry Sidney,agreeing to pay rent in exchange for protection. It was at this time that Sidney "shired" the area creating the English style district known as county Sligo. As part of this agreement, O 'Connor had to allow a sherriff to operate in the county and the circuit court to administer according to English common law. Several sherriffs were killed trying to implement this.

In 1577 Sir Nicholas Malby the English President of Connacht reported that merchants based in Sligo had requested the building of town walls.^[5] The walls were never built, although the town may have had earthwork defences at this time.

The town was destroyed during the Nine Years' War.

Armada

17th century

Granted a charter in 1613 under James I.

In the 17th century, it became the English caput (principal town) of the newly created County of Sligo. Sligo town now started a new phase as a colonial frontier town, surrounded by a largely hostile countryside. English gradually became the language in the town, but Irish remained the majority language of the county until the middle of the nineteenth century.

1641 Rebellion

The local nobility rose up during the 1641 rebellion led by. According to later depositions a number of Protestant settlers within the town were committed to the local gaol for their own safety but were later allegedly massacred by a drunken mob. Fighting with Frederick Hamilton who raided the town and burnt the abbey and executed the monks.

The Parliamentary government built a new stone fort on or near the site of the old castle, and an earthen star fort, known as the Green fort on the hill north of the town.

Sligo changed hands five times during the 1688-1691 Jacobite/Williamite wars. The town was fortified by the infamous soldier Henry Luttrell. The eccentric soldier Sir Teague O'Regan was the garrison commander for the Jacobite forces at Sligo. Patrick Sarsfield retook the town.

Notably, the last recorded use of a siege tower, known as a sow, in Britain or Ireland was at the siege of the stone fort in Sligo during this war. It was used to assault the stone fort on Quay St. It was not a success as the hides used to cover the sides were not musket proof.

18th and 19th Century Sligo

Landlords controlled almost all aspects of life. The town was on the lands of the Wynne estate based at Hazelwood house.

Maynooth Irish MS B 8, by Henry MacCarrick, a merchant and scholar of Sligo town who lived on High street and copied the Cuimre nGeneleach.

The town was heavily garrisoned in the 18th century, having four barracks, two horse and two foot.

In 1794 Sligo was in turmoil with a campaign of agrarian violence by the Defenders.

The forces of General Humbert marched through Sligo county during the 1798 Rebellion. they fought a battle at Collooney in which the combined Irish and French force was victorious. Sligo town did not fall to the rebels however as Humbert overestimated the size of the garrison present and failed to march on it. The garrison were preparing to abandon it.

The Sligo Militia fought at Vinegar hill.

The Great Famine

Prior to the famine the population of county Sligo was at least 187,000 people making it one of the densest populated areas in Ireland.

Sligo was a transit port for emigration during An Gorta Mór (The Great Famine). In 1846 11,000 emigrated through the port. Some of the worst coffin ships on record left from Sligo port. On the 9th of August 1847 the vessel Bark Larch arrived at the quarantine station at Grosse Isle, Canada from Sligo with 440 on board, of these,150 were sick and 108 were dead, this was by far the worst ship at the port that day.^[6] Lord Palmerston who held large estates in the county achieved notoriety with his Assisted Emigrants scheme .^[7]

Sligo experienced rapid industrialisation during the second half of the 19th century with many public buildings erected during this era.

Revolutionary Period 1913-1923

Trade unionism was begun early in the town 1913 Sligo Dock strike

War of Independence

Civil War

1919 PR-STV election, first municipality in Britain or Ireland to use this voting system.^[8]

Partition cut the town off from an extensive part of its hinterland in west Fermanagh and south Tyrone and trading contacts with Enniskillen and Belfast.

Free State and Republic

Sligo, whilst not directly on the border, was affected indirectly by the Troubles in Northern Ireland.

Further reading

A Light to the Blind (anonymous)

Woodmartin History of Sligo

References