Groves classification system

The Groves Classification is a numbering system to enable the shape of any academic gown or hood to be easily described and identified. It was devised by Nicholas Groves to establish a common terminology for hoods and gown to remedy the situation of individual universities using differing terms to describe the same item. As such it is used in same manner as an heraldic blazon whereby a textual description enables a coat of arms to be drawn. The system was first described in the Burgon Society's annual in 2001 and adopted as standard by robe makers and scholars of academic dress.[1]

Classes

The major classes of academic hoods.
Cape Cowl Liripipe
Full
Simple
Aberdeen

The original Groves Classification included a standardization for shapes and patterns of hoods and gowns worn by graduates and undergraduates. Further information was given regarding the use of different fabrics and standardization of colors, but the focus was placed on gowns and hoods which are explained further below.[1]

The Classification undergoes periodic revision as new hood and gown patterns emerge.

Hoods

Hoods in the Classification are divided into three different types as summarised in the table below. Unlike the gowns and robes, these are based on the shape of the hood rather than the degrees for which they are worn.

Code
number
 Name Pattern
Rear view.            Flat view 		Notes
Full shape hoods
[f1] Cambridge Cape with square corners.
[f2] Dublin As [f1] but the liripipe is curved at the inner corner.
[f3] London As [f1] but the cape corners are rounded.
[f4] Durham
Doctors
 		Used for doctoral degrees at the University of Durham. As [f7] but the liripipe is cut at a 45 degree angle and the cowl is slanted downwards.
[f5] Oxford Full Used for doctoral degrees at the University of Oxford. As [f7] but larger and with a narrow squared 'slot' between the liripipe edge and the cape.
[f6] Durham BA Traditional shape for BA degrees at the University of Durham. As for [f7] but with a large, semi-circular cape, and the space between the cape and liripipe is cut in a quadrant arc. The liripipe is sewn on separately.
[f7] Durham BSc As [f3] but the bottom of the cape has a rounded, semi-circular edge.
[f8] Edinburgh
Full
[f9] Glasgow Larger version of [f1], with a longer cape and a long narrow liripipe. Typically made with a wide neckband.
[f10] St Andrews
[f11] Warham Guild
[f12] King's Full Designed by Dame Vivienne Westwood in 2008 and features two long (4') streamers which serve as gown facings. There is no neckband, and the hood is held in place by a button fixed to the each shoulder of the gown. Owing to its unique shape the hood cannot be folded flat.
[f13] UMIST
[f14] ICC Doctors
[f15] Toronto
Simple shape hoods
[s1] Oxford
Simple
[s2] Oxford
Burgon
[s3] Belfast
[s4] Edinburgh As for [f8] with the cape portion removed.
[s5] Wales
[s6] Leicester
Bachelors
[s7]Leeds
[s8] Sussex
[s9] Victoria
[s10] Aston
[s11] Glasgow
Caledonian
[s12] King's
Simple
Aberdeen shaped hoods
[a1] CNAA
[a2] Leicester
Masters
[a3] Kent
[a4] East Anglia
[a5] Leicester
Doctors
[a6] Dundee
[a7] Aberdeen

Gowns

Gowns in the Groves system are divided into three classes. These generally follow the shapes associated with each different academic degree in the British educational system.

Bachelors

Code Example Notes
Bachelors gowns
[b1] Basic bachelor plain open sleeves, point reaching knee
[b2] Cambridge BA sleeve has slit in foream seam
[b3] Cambridge MB front of sleeve has foldback and cord and button
[b4] London BA front of sleeve is pleated and held by cord and button
[b5] Durham BA lower 8" of forearm seam left open, and held by button and loop
[b6] Wales BA lower 6" of forearm seam left open and folded back, held by 2 buttons, with third button on seam in middle
[b7] Bath BA as [b5], but with button at top of slit
[b8] Oxford BA as [b1], but sleeves reach hem of gown
[b9] Belfast BA bell sleeve, pleated as [b4]
[b10] Dublin BA as [b1], but sleeves much smaller
[b11] Reading BA as [b2], but sleeve point is rounded off
[b12] Sussex BA bag sleeve with small armhole

Masters

Sleeve pattern
Degree Oxford MA Cambridge MA Dublin MA Wales MA London MA Victoria MA Lampeter BD Leicester MA Bristol MA
Code number[m1][m2][m3][m4][m5][m6][m7][m8][m9]
Basic Master Lancaster MA Scottish MA Not used Open Warwick MA Bath MA Sussex MA Manchester MA King's MA
[m10][m11][m12][m13][m14][m15][m16][m17][m18][m19]

Doctors

Code Example Notes
Doctors/Special gowns
[d1] Cambridge doctors wide open sleeves, similar to [b1], with the wrist turned back and held with a cord and button
[d2] Oxford doctors bell sleeves
[d3] Cambridge MusD small bell sleeves with cuff
[d4] Cambridge LL.D undress flap-collar (QC's) gown
[d5] Oxford convocation habit sleeveless habit closed with two buttons at the front
[d6] Sussex doctors MA-style sleeve with vertical slit, base hollowed into B shape
[d7] Aston narrow sleeves
[d8] Cambridge DD undress bell sleeves gathered at wrist

Headwear

Code Example Notes
[h1] Mortarboard a square board attached to a skull cap, often with a button and tassel
[h2] Tudor bonnet a round soft hat with brim, often with a cord and tassels
[h3] John Knox cap a square soft cap
[h4] Bishop Andrewes cap like [h1] but soft and with a silk tuff in lieu of button and tassel
[h5] Oxford ladies' cap a soft square cap with a flap at the back and held up with two buttons
[h6] Sussex pileus a round cylindrical cap with a covered button on the top
[h7] Leicester doctoral cap a modified biretta
[h8] UEA BA a skull cap with upturned brim (no longer used)
[h9] UEA MA a skull cap with a triangular structure on top (no longer used)

Changes

The Groves classification system was first published in 2001. Since that time, it has been adapted and changed to include newly devised academic dress and revisions of existing schemes.[1] The Burgon Society maintains a comprehensive listing of system shapes on its website. In addition to those included above, the current list classifies undergraduate gowns in use throughout the United Kingdom and academic headwear.[2]

References

  1. 1 2 3 Groves, Nicholas (2001), "Towards a Standard Terminology for Describing Academic Dress" (PDF), The Burgon Society Annual, 1: 9–12.
  2. ↑ "The Design of Academical Dress". The Burgon Society.
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