Alessandro Gogna
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Nationality |
 Italian |
| Born |
29 July 1946 Genoa, Italy |
| Website | http://www.alessandrogogna.com |
| Climbing career | |
| Major ascents | Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Marmolada di Rocca |
Alessandro Gogna (born 29 July 1946) is a mountaineer, adventurer and Mountain guide from Italy.
Biography
Born in Genoa, Italy, has been and still is one of the key figures of Italian mountaineering, both as an active climber and as one of the foremost writer about the mountain world.
He has lived and described the transition from classic mountaineering to modern climbing.
The first ascents were on the mountains of his native Liguria, then his interest moved to the walls of the Dolomites and later he has climbed in all the possible environment, from sea level to the high camps of K2. He count over 500 new climbs in Italy.
He still is one of the international guarantors of Mountain Wilderness having been among the founders.
Main climb
- 1967: Scarason (Alpi Liguri), NE wall, first climb
- 1968: Pizzo Badile, NE wall, route Cassin, first winter climb
- 1968: Grandes Jorasses, N wall, route Cassin, first solo climb
- 1969: Grand Capucin, SE wall, Diretta dei Ragni, first winter climb
- 1969: Monte Rosa, Macugnaga E wall, via dei Francesi, first solo climb
- 1969: Matterhorn, Naso di Z’Mutt first climb
- 1970: Grivola, NE wall, via Cretier, first winter climb
- 1970: IIa Pala di S. Lucano, SW wall, first climb
- 1970: Marmolada, S wall, first climb direct route
- 1971: Pilier d'Angle, full Peutérey ridge, first winter climb
- 1971: Cima di Terranova Monte Civetta, NW wall, first climb direct route
- 1972: IIIa Pala di San Lucano, W wall, first climb
- 1972: Brenta Alta, NE ridge, first climb
- 1972: Grandes Jorasses, S wall, first climb
- 1972: Aiguille de Leschaux, NE wall, first climb direct route
- 1974: IIa Pala di San Lucano, E wall, first climb
- 1974: IVa Pala di San Lucano, S wall, first climb
- 1974: Campanile dei Zoldani (Moiazza), W wall, first climb direct route
- 1974: Palazza (Monti del Sole), SW wall, first climb
- 1981: Guglia di Goloritzé, first climb ever
- 1984: Liss dal Pesgunfi (Val Màsino), E wall, first climb
- 2005: Cima di Pino Sud (Col Nudo), E wall, first climb
Expeditions
- 1973: Annapurna, attempt on the NW ridge
- 1975: Lhotse, S wall, attempt[1]
- 1978: El Capitan (California), Salathé route, first Italian climb[2]
- 1979: K2, Abruzzi spur
Other activities
- Speaker (400 talks in Italy and worldwide, starting 1968 until today)
- Writer, about 200 articles on magazines, newspaper, web
- Trekking tour leader in Asia and Africa, dal 1972 al 1978
- creator and coordinator of outstanding initiatives, such as: Clean Marmolada, Free K2,[3] Save the Glaciers, Levissima for Everest,[4] Club Alpino Italiano cleanup of Baltoro Glacier,[5] ecc.
Selected bibliography
Alessandro Gogna has written over 40 books,[6] in many languages, and co-authored many more.
- Gogna, A., Grandes Jorasses Sperone Walker (Tamari, Nordpress, 1999) [7]
- Gogna, A., Un alpinismo di ricerca (Dall’Oglio, 1975)
- Gogna, A. Reinhold Messner, K2 (De Agostini, 1980) [8]
- Gogna, A., La parete (Zanichelli, 1981)
- Gogna, A., Cento nuovi mattini (Zanichelli, 1981)
- Gogna, A., Mezzogiorno di pietra (Zanichelli, 1982)
- Gogna, A., Rock story (Edizioni Melograno, 1983)
- Gogna, A., Cento pareti di ghiaccio nelle Alpi (Zanichelli, 1984)
- Gogna, A., A piedi in Valtellina (De Agostini, 1984)
- Gogna, A., Dal Pizzo Badile al Bernina (Zanichelli, 1986)
- Gogna, A., Sentieri verticali (Zanichelli, 1987)
- Gogna, A., Mesolcina - Spluga (CAI - TCI, 1999)
- Gogna, A., K2. Uomini. Esplorazioni. Imprese [9][10]
- Gogna, A., I Grandi Spazi delle Alpi (8 volumes) [11][12]
- Gogna, A., Le Montagne più belle (11 volumes), La Stampa - Priuli&Verlucca, 2006 e 2008 [13]
- Gogna, A., La verità obliqua di Severino Casara (with Italo Zandonella, Priuli&Verlucca, 2009) [14][15]
- Gogna, A., Insieme in vetta, (with Raggio, A. Mondadori 2013)
Sources
- ↑ Articolo su montagna.org
- ↑ Articolo su espresso.repubblica.it
- ↑ Recensione del libro FREE K2 La prima avventura in soccorso delle grandi montagne della terra
- ↑ Articolo su repubblica.it
- ↑ Articolo su Cai.it
- ↑ Recensione libri di A. Gogna
- ↑ Recensione Grandes Jorasses Sperone Walker
- ↑ Recensione libro K2 Premio Bancarella Sport
- ↑ Recensione K2 Uomini, esplorazioni, imprese
- ↑ K2, Uomini, recensioni, imprese
- ↑ Recensione su priulieverlucca.it
- ↑ Recensione su priulieverlucca.it
- ↑ Recensione su priulieverlucca.it
- ↑ Trentinofestival.it
- ↑ RecensioniDiLibri.it
See also
External links
- Intervista su Alpinia
- Intervista sull'Espresso
- Gruppo GISM
- Trentofilmfestival
- La Feltrinelli
- K3 Photo agency co-owner. One of the most complete archives of mountain photo: over 100'000 images of the Alps and of other mountains worldwide.
- personal website
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