Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra

Personal information
Nationality	Czech Republic
Born	(1993-02-05) February 5, 1993 Brno, Czech Republic
Occupation	Professional Rock Climber
Height	185 centimetres (6 ft 1 in)
Weight	68 kilograms (150 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber	Sport climbing
Highest grade	Redpoint: 9b+ (5.15c) On-sight: 9a (5.14d) Bouldering: 8C+ (V16)
Known for	Being one of the best boulderers and sport climbers in the world First person to climb 9b+ (Sport)
Medal record Climbing World Championships 2011 Arco Overall 2014 Gijon Lead 2014 Munich Bouldering 2016 Paris Lead 2009 Xining Lead 2011 Arco Bouldering 2016 Paris Bouldering 2011 Arco Lead 2012 Paris Lead Climbing European Championships 2010 Imst/Innsbruck Lead 2010 Imst/Innsbruck Bouldering 2015 Chamonix Lead 2015 Innsbruck Bouldering Climbing World Cup Winner 2009 Lead Winner 2009 Overall Winner 2010 Bouldering Winner 2010 Overall Winner 2015 Lead Winner 2015 Overall
Updated on 11 November 2015.

Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993 in Brno) is a Czech rock climber. He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions.

He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he won both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He also has a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010.

As of 7 December 2014, he climbed 1,162 routes between 8a (5.13b) and 9b+ (5.15c), of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+ (5.14c).^[1] He is the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) (Change, Flatanger, 4 October 2012)^[2] and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+ (5.15c) routes.

Biography

Adam Ondra at the IFSC Lead Worldcup Imst 2009

Ondra started climbing at the age of six; his parents are climbers and they shared their passion with him. In 1999 (at age six) at Rovinj in Croatia Ondra climbed 6a (5.10a) routes with bolts every half meter. In 2001 (at age eight) he onsighted 7b+ (5.12c) routes and in 2002 (at age nine) he onsighted 7c+ (5.13a) and redpointed 8a (5.13b). He onsighted 8a (5.13b) routes in 2003 (at age ten). In 2004 (at age eleven) Ondra climbed several 8a+ (5.13c) onsight^[3] and 8c (5.14b) redpoints. In 2005 (at age twelve) he onsighted 8b (5.13d) routes, and in 2006 he managed to climb his first 9a (5.14d), Martin Krpan at Misja Pec. Ondra became famous in climbing magazines as his achievements grew more and more notable.

In 2007 and 2008 he won the IFSC Youth World Championship category Youth B.

In 2009, at age sixteen, Ondra competed for the first time in the Lead Climbing World Cup and won, beating Spanish Patxi Usobiaga and Japanese Sachi Amma.^[4]

In 2010 he also won the Bouldering World Cup, beating Austrian Kilian Fischhuber and Japanese Tsukuru Hori, and becoming the first athlete in history to win both the disciplines (lead and bouldering).^[5]

In March 2011 during a trip in Spain Ondra became the second person ever to have onsighted 8c+ (5.14c) after Patxi Usobiaga. In a couple of days he onsighted five 8c+ (5.14c) routes (two of which on the same day).^[6]

On October 4, 2012, Ondra sent Change, found in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway. It is the first route to receive a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c).^[2][7]

On October 29, 2012, Ondra flashed one of the Red River Gorge's hardest routes, Southern Smoke Direct 9a+ (5.15a), suggesting the grade of 9a (5.14d).^[8][9] On November 1, he onsighted Pure Imagination and The Golden Ticket, both 9a, suggesting the grade of 8c+.^[10]

On February 7, 2013, Ondra sent La Dura Dura, in Oliana, Catalonia, Spain, his second 9b+ (5.15c) after Change. He worked on this project with Chris Sharma and the first ascent took Ondra nine weeks of work.^[11]

On February 9, 2013, just two days after La Dura Dura, Ondra succeeded in the second ascent of the 9b (5.15b) Fight or flight, first climbed by Sharma in 2011.^[12]

On July 9, 2013, Ondra realized the second 9a (5.14d) onsight in history after Alexander Megos, with the ascent of Cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland.^[13]

Ranking

Adam Ondra at the IFSC Boulder Worldcup Vienna 2010

Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Championships

Climbing European Championships

Rock Master

Single-pitch routes

The table below shows the impressively large number of routes graded 8a (5.13b) or more ascended by Adam Ondra in about 12 years, from 2 August 2002 (when he redpointed his first 8a) to 7 December 2014.^[1] The total number is 1162, of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+ (5.14c).

Redpoint

• 9b+/5.15c:
  • Vasil Vasil - Sloup (CZE) - 4 December 2013 - First ascent
  • La Dura Dura - Oliana (ESP) - 7 February 2013 - First ascent^[11]
  • Change - Flatanger (NOR) - 4 October 2012 - First ascent^[2]
• 9b/5.15b :
  • Robin Ud - Alternativna stena (SVK) - 5 October 2016 - First ascent^[14]
  • C.R.S. - Mollans sur Ouvèze (FRA) - 2 November 2015 - First ascent
  • First Round First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - 3 February 2014 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route
  • Move - Flatanger (NOR) - 20 August 2013 - First ascent, Ondra graded the route 9b/+
  • Iron Curtain - Flatanger (NOR) - 3 August 2013 - First ascent
  • Fight or flight - Oliana (ESP) - 9 February 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2011)^[12]
  • La planta de Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - 22 April 2011 - First ascent^[15]
  • Chilam Balam - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - 13 April 2011 - Second ascent (however Bernabe Fernandez's first ascent is not confirmed)^[16]
  • Chaxi Raxi - Oliana (ESP) - 27 March 2011 - First ascent of Chaxi direct start^[17]
  • La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - 16 February 2011 - First ascent^[18]
  • Golpe de Estado - Siurana (ESP) - 13 March 2010 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)^[19]
• 9a+/5.15a:
  • Predator - Czech karst (CZE) - 19 November 2015 - First ascent, the hardest route in Bohemia^[20]
  • Three Degrees of Separation - Céüse (FRA) - 27 July 2015 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2007)
  • Biographie - Céüse (FRA) - 22 July 2014 - Tenth ascent
  • Ini Ameriketan - Baltzola (ESP) - 9 May 2014
  • Hell Racer - Hell (NOR) - 22 September 2013 - First ascent
  • Kangaroo's Limb - Flatanger (NOR) - 21 September 2013 - First ascent
  • Torture Physique Integrale - Gastlosen (SWI) - 7 July 2013 - First ascent
  • Power Inverter - Oliana (ESP) - 25 January 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2010)
  • Thor's Hammer - Flatanger (NOR) - 8 July 2012 - First ascent
  • Jungle Boogie - Céüse (FRA) - 7 June 2012 - First ascent^[21]
  • Perlorodka - Holstejn, Mor.kras (CZE) - 6 September 2011 - First ascent
  • Overshadow - Malham Cove (UK) - 16 May 2011 - Second ascent of Steve McClure's route^[22]
  • Chaxi - Oliana (ESP) - 21 March 2011 - First ascent of Chris Sharma's project
  • Obrint el sistema - Santa Ana (ESP) - 14 March 2011 - First ascent of Daniel Andrada's project^[23]
  • L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs - Céüse (FRA) - 4 September 2010 - First ascent^[24]
  • Goldrake - Cornalba (ITA) - 6 April 2010 - First ascent^[25]
  • Marina Superstar - Domusnovas (ITA) - 20 October 2009 - First ascent^[26]
  • Corona - Frankenjura (GER) - 7 June 2009 - Second ascent of Markus Bock's route (2006)^[27]
  • Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - 24 February 2009 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)^[28]
  • Open Air - Schleierwasserfall (AUT) - 17 November 2008 - Second ascent of Alexander Huber's route (1996)^[29]
  • La Rambla - Siurana (ESP) - 10 February 2008 - Sixth ascent^[30]

Onsight

• 9a/5.14d:
  • TCT - Gravere (ITA) - 11 July 2014
  • Il Domani - Baltzola (ESP) - 3 May 2014
  • Cabane au Canada - Rawyl (SUI) - 9 July 2013 - Second 9a onsight in history^[13]
• 8c+/5.14c:
  • C'est la vie - Alternativna stena (SVK) - 5 October 2016^[31]
  • Super Plafond - Volx (FRA) - 6 July 2014
  • Chambao - Baltzola (ESP) - 7 May 2013^[32]
  • Pure Imagination - Red River Gorge (USA) - 1 November 2012
  • Golden Ticket - Red River Gorge (USA) - 1 November 2012
  • Muy Verdes - Flatanger (NOR) - 11 July 2012
  • Eye of Odin - Flatanger (NOR) - 8 July 2012
  • Deltaplane Man Direct - Entraygues (FRA) - 31 May 2012
  • Bella Regis - Bus De Vela (ITA) - 7 April 2012^[33]
  • L'Avaro - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - 13 July 2011^[34]
  • La Rubia - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - 13 April 2011
  • Blanquita - Oliana (ESP) - 27 March 2011^[35]
  • Mind Control - Oliana (ESP) - 20 March 2011^[36]
  • Powerade - Vadiello (ESP) - 9 March 2011^[37]
  • Bizi Euskaraz - Etxauri (ESP) - 7 March 2011^[38]
  • Kidetasunaren balio erantsia - Etxauri (ESP) - 6 March 2011 - Second 8c+ onsight in history after route by Patxi Usobiaga in 2007^[39]
• 8c/5.14b:
  • Aktion Talon - Höllental (AUT) - 29 June 2013
  • Into the Wild - Jaén (ESP) - 16 March 2013
  • Terapia de Grito - Cuenca (ESP) - 13 February 2013
  • El Calvario del Sicario - Cuenca (ESP) - 10 February 2013
  • Nordic Flower - Flatanger (NOR) - 9 July 2012
  • Scoglio de Capri - Bus De Vela (ITA) - 7 April 2012
  • Iluzija - Kotecnik (SLO) - 5 April 2012
  • 5 Uve - Arco (ITA) - 27 June 2011
  • Bat Route - Malham Cove (UK) - 16 May 2011
  • Carbunco - Archidona (ESP) - 23 April 2011
  • Kalliste - Archidona (ESP) - 23 April 2011
  • Fuck the police - Etxauri (ESP) - 6 March 2011
  • Dures Limites - Céüse (FRA) - 10 August 2010^[40]
  • Smoke - Pierrot beach (FRA) - 5 August 2010
  • Home Sweet Home - Pierrot beach (FRA) - 5 August 2010
  • Guère d'usure - Claret (FRA) - 29 January 2010^[41]
  • Super Samson - Claret (FRA) - 29 January 2010^[41]
  • Gora Guta Gutarak - Kalymnos (GRE) - 22 May 2009^[42]
  • Una Vida Nomada - Covolo (ITA) - 21 April 2009^[43]
  • Nagay - Covolo (ITA) - 21 April 2009^[43]
  • L'espiadimondis - Margalef (ESP) - 2 March 2009
  • Los Humildes Pa Casa - Oliana (ESP) - 24 February 2009
  • Métaphysique Des Tubes - Seynes (FRA) - 21 February 2009
  • Absinth - Sparchen (AUT) - 16 August 2008
  • Rollito Sharma Extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - 7 February 2008
  • Digital System - Santa Linya (ESP) - 5 February 2008

Bouldering

Ondra has climbed 202 boulders between 8A/V11 and 8C+/V16:

• 2 8C+/V16 boulders
• 6 8C/V15 boulders
• 18 8B+/V14 boulders
• 35 8B/V13 boulders
• 56 8A+/V12 boulders
• 85 8A/V11 boulders

Ondra won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2008,^[44] 2009^[45] 2010^[46] and 2011.^[47]

• 8C+/V16:
  • Gioia - Varazze (ITA) - 6 December 2011 - Second ascent of Christian Core's boulder (2008)^[48]
  • Terranova - Holstejn, Mor.kras (CZE) - 10 November 2011 - First ascent, traverse^[49]
• 8C/V15:
  • Cháron - Petrohrad / Mlýnský vrch (CZE) - 15 October 2011 - First ascent^[50]
  • Practice of the Wild - Magic Wood (SUI) - 1 October 2011 - Chris Sharma's boulder (2004)
  • Pata ledovce - Holstejn, Mor.kras (CZE) - 6 September 2011 - First ascent^[51]
  • Monkey Wedding - Rocklands (ZA) - 14 August 2011 - Third ascent of Fred Nicole's boulder (2002)
  • From The Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (SUI) - 30 November 2010 - Dave Graham's boulder (2005)^[52]
  • Big Paw - Chironico (SUI) - 29 November 2010 - Third ascent of Dave Graham's boulder (2008)^[53]

Multi-pitch routes

Karambony East Face - Tough Enough route runs in the middle

• The Dawn Wall - El Capitan (USA) - 21 November 2016
• Mora Mora - Tsaranoro Atsimo (Madagascar) - 10 October 2010 - First free ascent
• Bravo Les Filles - Tsaranoro Kelly (Madagascar) - 7 October 2010
• Tough Enough Original - Karambony (Madagascar) - 4 October 2010 - First free ascent^[54]
• Tough Enough - Karambony (Madagascar) - 30 September 2010 - First free ascent^[55]
• Hotel Supramonte - Gole di Gorroppu (ITA) - 18 October 2008 - First onsight ascent^[56]
• Ali Baba - Paroi Derobée di Aiglun (FRA) - 2008 - Second ascent^[57]
• WoGü - Rätikon (SUI) - 26 July 2008 - First free ascent of Beat Kammerlander's route (1997)^[58]
• Zub za zub - Rätikon (SUI) - 29 July 2007 - First free ascent^[59]
• Silbergeier - Rätikon (SUI) - 27 July 2007^[60]

Filmography

• The Wizard's Apprentice - 2012 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced by Bernartwood - 110'^[61]

Awards

• 2008 Salewa Rock Award^[62]
• 2010 Salewa Rock Award^[63]
• 2011 Salewa Rock Award^[64]
• 2013 Salewa Rock Award^[65]

References

External links

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